IN SEARCH OF
Vegetables that smack of summer
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Tuesday, July 14, 2009
It’s summertime, and the livin’ is easy — at least for those of us who love the vegetables and fruits that come with its bounty. Georgia peaches are in stores now, and some tomatoes are showing up at local farm stands. Corn is here, too. Okra can’t be far away. … Try these spots on for vegetables that smack of summer.
Rumi’s Kitchen 
6152 Roswell Road, Atlanta, 404-477-2100, www.rumiskitchen.com
The wheaty aroma of Rumi’s house-made flatbread permeates the foyer, the air on the patio and the restaurant’s small, attentively decorated dining area. Served in modern spiral baskets, it is the center of attention at each table, and wonderfully soft and pliable. Why? It’s the perfect mate to smear through kashk badenjoon, an eggplant dish stewed with tomatoes and onions and topped with a tart cream of whey, caramelized onions and dried mint. This is the vegetable version of crack, and once you get started, you won’t stop.
Abattoir (not rated)
1170 Howell Mill Road, Atlanta. 404-892-3335, www.starprovisions.com
Heralded chefs Anne Quatrano and Clifford Harrison have added to their stable of restaurants that includes Bacchanalia and Floataway Cafe with this casual spot that isn’t so “meat centric” after all. Sure, the menu definitely operates around four-legged things, with an emphasis on the full use of animal products, including goodies such as lamb liver fritters and tripe stew. But hold on a minute: The veggies here could make a meal, especially the summer crisp salad crowned with a poached farm egg and crispy bacon. Or a fabulously simple heirloom tomato sliced and served with, yes … salt and pepper. Nothing short of genius.
Waterhaven (not rated)
75 5th St., Atlanta, 404-214-6740, www.waterhavenatl.com
Don’t be so shy: the Globe’s former space hasn’t changed as much as was first touted. Don’t be afraid to venture in, especially if it’s to try a plate of veggies full of Italian greens done up Southern or sweet, slightly salty seasoned (I like ‘em that way) lady peas. Heck, you might even find a stuffed, lightly fried squash blossom lurking under a stack of sliced-and-grilled eggplant. New owner Joe McCarthy has stated that he’s committed to using local, sustainable ingredients in the kitchen and it’s starting to show.
4th & Swift 
621 North Ave. N.E., Atlanta, 678-904-0160, www.4thandswift.com
Nothing about chef Jay Swift’s food is affected. In fact, he may be one of the subtlest chefs in the city. At this lovely restaurant inside a sweeping loft of the old Southern Dairies building, everything is fresh, simply prepared and arrives happily at the table from a young staff eager to please. His summery corn soup will put you in your happy place: Cream and corn collide in a bowl of velvety wonder, crowned with a bit of crabmeat. It tastes like a bowl of summer, minus the mosquito bites.
Watershed
406 W. Ponce de Leon Ave., Decatur. 404-378-4900, www.watershedrestaurant.com
Executive chef Scott Peacock’s upscale Southern classics conjure after-church-on-Sunday food, the kind we sat around the table and said grace over. The vegetable plate is plenty reason to say thanks: Heaps of fried okra, summer squash, green beans, simple corn off-the-cob, field peas and sliced tomatoes. Oh, and luscious spoon bread, inspired by Edna Lewis.
KEY TO RATINGS
Outstanding: Sets the standard for fine dining in the region. Excellent: One of the best in the Atlanta area. Very good: Merits a drive if you’re looking for this kind of dining. 
Good: A worthy addition to its neighborhood, but food may be hit or miss. 
Fair: The food is more miss than hit.
Restaurants that do not meet these criteria may be rated Poor.
PRICING CODE: $$$$$ means more than $75; $$$$ means $75 and less; $$$ means $50 and less; $$ means $25 and less; $ means $15 and less. (The price code represents a meal for one that includes appetizer, entree and dessert without including tax, tip and cocktails.)
