At a time when gastropubs and upscale taverns have become a happening on the Atlanta dining scene, Brockett Pub House & Grill, a convivial roadside spot in Clarkston, comes off as something of a creative anachronism.

Devotees of beer joints and dive bars of decades past will feel perfectly at home here among the neon signs, vintage video games and pool tables. And pub grub junkies hankering for burgers, brats and other unreconstructed indulgences, served up in portions only a cardiologist could hate, will chow down with gusto.

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The Southwestern chicken salad with grilled chicken atop mixed greens, corn, tomato, black beans, avocado, cucumber, cheddar jack cheese and tortilla chips.

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CLARKSTON CORNER

Situated in a small building next to a liquor store at the corner of Brockett Road and East Ponce de Leon Avenue, the big blue and white Pub House sign marks the entrance. Inside, owners Christina and John Gagne have updated the former Barbara Ann’s space a bit, with flat screen TVs and a few other contemporary flourishes.

But the biggest change is food and drink that’s a cut above what you might expect, with lots of homemade touches, and weekly specials. That’s no doubt because before opening Brockett nearly three years ago, Christina owned the crave-worthy Spiced Dog hot dog shop in Decatur, and John was a manager at the beer-centric Summits Wayside Tavern in Snellville.

The couple consider this venture a true mom-and-pop place. And it’s serendipitously steeped in a bit of family history — given that Christina’s father, George Karakos, first had a bar here, called George K’s Tavern, back in 1980.

MEATY MENU

The Brockett menu is loaded with items that would have been around in the days of George K’s, from nachos and wings to hefty sirloin burgers. But many of the best offerings are made with meats cooked in-house.

The signature Reuben is piled with tender, aromatic corned beef that’s slowly braised in wheat beer and a blend of spices, before joining the classic combo of sauerkraut, Swiss cheese, and creamy 1000 island dressing between hunks of grilled marble rye. Similarly, bratwurst is cooked in beer, then grilled, covered with sautéed onions and peppers, and served on an airy baguette, with a side of spicy whole grain mustard.

Entree plates include pulled pork with Brunswick stew, fries and slaw, beer-battered fish and chips, and sizzling chicken fajitas with all the fixings.

SPECIALS

In a nod to neighborhood regulars, the Brockett beer list includes the usual American light lager. But there’s a surprisingly good selection of craft beers. And on Wednesday nights, all American micro-brews (excluding high gravity beers) go for $3.50 a bottle. On Wednesday and Friday nights, look for dinner specials, such as a New England-style lobster boil coming up on July 24.

Signature dish: Beer-braised corned beef Reuben
Entree prices: $7-$15
Hours: 11:30 a.m.-11:30 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 11:30 a.m.-1 a.m. Fridays-Saturdays; noon-11:30 p.m. Sundays
Reservations: For large parties
Credit cards: Yes
Online: www.brockettpub.com